Myanmar, December 9^th -21^st 2012

Front cover

Jerdon's Minivet, Pericrocotus albifrons, Sitsana, Bagan 13.12.

Participants

Måns Grundsten, mans.grundsten@gmail.com, compiler and photos Jonas Nordin, carljonas@hotmail.com Tomas Carlberg, tomas.carlberg@slu.se, all Stockholm, Sweden

Highlights

To start with we had a mid-day visit to Hlawga Park, north of Yangon which provided a nice birding introduction to the country. In Shan State in the east we had Jerdon's Bush Chat at Lake Inle, and Collared Myna close to Kalaw. Ultramarine Flycatcher and Black-headed Greenfinch north of Kalaw. Two days around the undisturbed lush evergreen forest around Ye-aye-kan Reservoir produced a family group of Burmese Yuhina, also Pin-tailed and Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon, Asian Stubtail, Marten's Warbler, Scaly Thrush, Black-throated Laughingthrush and Blue-bearded Bee-eater. On the first morning in Bagan we scored all four dry zone endemics around Sitsana Temple. Great Thick-knee, Pied Harrier and White-tailed Stonechat on the Irrawaddy. On the way to Natmataung National Park we encountered a Pale-chinned Flycatcher, a pair of Himalayan Flamebacks and many parakeets of four species. On our four days at Mount Victoria we had White-browed Nuthatch, Black-bibbed Tit, Burmese Bushtit, Himalayan Cutia, three laughingthrushes, Mount Victoria Babax, Red-faced Liocichla, Chin Hills and Spotted Wren-Babbler, Spot-breasted Scimitar-Babbler, Spot-breasted and Black-throated (ripponi) Parrotbills, Abberant Bush Warbler and presumably a significant winter range extension of Bianchi's Warbler. Heading back to Bagan we had a superb Hooded Treepie in foothill forest, Collared Falconet, Red-headed Trogon, and White-eyed Buzzard, but no Neglected Nuthatch. Last morning in Bagan we had superb mating views of the pair of Laggar Falcons at Sulamani Temple.

General information

Being recently opened up for tourism Myanmar (or traditionally Burma) provides a broad spectrum of birding challenges. From tropical rainforests in the south, vast mudflats in the Irrawaddy delta, dry savanna in the center, hill countries in the eastern Shan State, mountainous Chin Hills in the west and a Himalayan spur in the northern Kachin state. Besides groups from established birding tour companies few independent birders have so far made it to Myanmar, giving a pristine touch to the birding experience. Few areas are protected by law and seemingly undisturbed habitat e.g. en route Mount Victoria will for sure be logged once infrastructure has improved. And in the few remnants of natural habitat hunting pressure is enormous. We met several hunters inside Natmataung National Park and heard a few gun shots, and even found a recently killed Bar-throated Minla! Our guide told us about recent kills of a wandering Leopard and two Himalayan Sun Bears. Furthermore, large trees are deliberately wounded (partially cut at the base) so that when they fall wood can be brought out. We found birding generally being quite tough, with swift moving easily-disturbed birds difficult to approach. Observations often in bad light-conditions in the canopy. On the other hand the diversity and potential is extraordinary with high numbers of rare birds. And we had clear skies, and no disturbing winds.

Literature

• A Field Guide to the Birds of South-East Asia, C Robson (2011, paperback edition) * Birds of the Indian Subcontinent, R Grimmett, C Inskipp, T Inskipp (2011)
• Birds of South Asia: The Ripley Guide, Vol 1 and 2, P Rasmussen, J Anderton (2005) * Lonely Planet: Myanmar (Burma) guide (December 2011)
• Many trip-reports from the web including: B Anderson (2006), G Talbot (2006), U Paal (2012), J Hornbuckle (2012), and some of the Birdtour Asia, Birdquest, Rockjumper and Avifauna reports.
  
  

Collared Myna, Acridotheres albocinctus. Great views east of Kalaw 10.12 2012.

Logistics

Since June 2012 visa-on-arrival can be prearranged from a list of countries (Sweden is one of them). We do NOT recommend turning up at Yangon Airport and try to arrange your visa on the spot (however it might be possible when traveling on certain flights at certain times arriving at certain destinations...). Most travel companies can assist in this pre-arranging matter (charge approx 25 USD pp, they will need 1. Full name. 2. Nationality. 3. Passport no. 4. A copy of your passport. 5. Time and flight number.). The visa fee is another 30 USD pp and is paid directly at the visa-on-arrival counter at the airport where your papers wait for you.

    At Yangon International Airport visa-on-arrival and immigration procedures went unexpectedly smooth. In the main hall there is an ATM which accept MasterCard (but not VISA). All bank offices were closed on our arrival date (Sunday!). 1 USD = 845 Myanmar Kyat (MMK), you get higher exchange rate at local bank offices if you have 100 USD bills. All hotels, guiding costs and fees were paid in USD, food and beverages in MMK.

    We found two different local tour agents who offered tours to Mount Victoria: SST and Myanmar Travel Expert Co., Ltd. (www.myanmartravelexpert.com). We never succeeded in making contact with a third agent, Tony Htin Hla referred to in many previous trip reports despite trying all available e-mail addresses or by telephone(!). All prices in Myanmar have recently risen dramatically and when comparing arrangements to Mount Victoria they have almost doubled on less than a year! We spent 4 full days on Mount Victoria meaning a 6 days/5 nights arrangement (870 USD(!) pp), including breakfast only in the package. The price included 5 nights at Pine Wood Villa, 4x4 Jeep, driver, and birding guide Ko Thet. We bought dinners directly at Pine Wood Villa = 60.500 MMK (3 pax, 5 dinners + 1 lunch) and brought packed lunch from Bagan (bananas, eggs (cooked each morning), “bread”, jam, soft drinks (Crusher!)) = 14.000 MMK (3 pax, 6 lunches + beer to the evening) which we were told to do by our guide but in retrospect was totally unnecessary. Packed lunch could easily be arranged cheaply at Pine Wood Villa. There are no other possibilities to visit Mount Victoria than hiring a local travel company since you need a lot of paperwork carried out with approvals from the local Police, the state of Chin and the Forest department. We found the service from Myanmar Travel Expert being excellent except some evident over-charging for a pre-arranged local bus transport. The contact-person is Moe who always replied our mails quickly. Half of our agreed fee was transferred to a Singapore bank account prior to the trip which worked out without any troubles.

    At Nyaung Shwe there was a 5 USD pp Zone Fee to enter Lake Inle area. And at Bagan domestic airport there was a 10 USD pp Archaeological Zone Fee (valid for 1 week).

    We had some initial stomach disorders during the trip, not disturbing the birding experience too much thankfully. We heard several other foreigners suffering stomach problems. Otherwise we took no other precautions other than vaccine against Hepatitis A/B (Havrix/Twinrix) and Cholera (Dukoral).

Domestic flights

There are to our knowledge three flight companies that run domestic flights in Myanmar: Yangon Airways, Air Mandalay and Air Bagan. Prices and service should be roughly the same. We found time tables for all flights on their homepage respectively and chose Air Bagan meaning going Yangon-Heho-Nyaung U-Yangon. We tried to plan our flights rather midday, afternoon or preferably evening time to avoid missing out on valuable morning birding time. This round trip with Air Bagan cost 320 USD pp, pre-booked and pre-paid to MTT. The check-in procedures, luggage service and punctuality of Air Bagan was impeccable. The waiting halls at the domestic airports were simple.

Our flight times:

9.12 Yangon - Heho 15.30 (flight time around 1 h)
12.12 Heho - Nyaung U 16.55 (flight time around 1,5 h) (via Mandalay)
20.12 Nyaung U - Yangon 18.25 (flight time around 1 h)

Accommodation

All accommodation were pre-booked by phone from Sweden. Month of December is peak season and many hotels were fully booked. We met many newly-arrived guests who had to wait hours in the lobbies for vacant rooms.
Nyaung Shwe: Remember Inn Guest House 35 USD/3 pax (2 rooms) (clean)
Kalaw: Eastern Paradise Hotel 40 USD/3 pax (1 room) (clean)
Nyaung U: New Park Hotel 30 USD/3 pax (1 room) (simple)
Pine Wood Villa: (see previous) (friendly and helpful staff, tasty food)

Transportation

There are very few local transports available which could explain the relatively high prices. Most of our transports were pre-arranged to save time.
Yangon Airport – Hlawga Park – Yangon Airport (5 hours): 35.000 MKK (unhassled...)
Heho – Nyaung Shwe: 35.000 MKK (unhassled...)
Nyaung Shwe – Kalaw: 45.000 MKK (unhassled...)
Kalaw – Heho: 35.000 MKK (unhassled...)
Nyaung U Airport – Nyaung U Hotel: 5.000 MKK

Guides

Ko Pan: Excellent birding guide based in Kalaw. We let him arrange our trip to Shan State for 150 USD (2,5 days birding/3 nights). He knows most calls and have been working as a birding guide since many years back, he has also participated in bird surveys in most corners of Myanmar. He is a friendly guy truly concerned about nature preservation issues. Knows Ye-ayekan and Kalaw like the back of his hand. Contact: kopanornithologist15@gmail.com.

Ko Thet: Based at Bagan. Works with Moe at Myanmar Travel Expert and has been leading bird tours around Bagan and Mount Victoria for less than 10 years. Devoted to bird photography and knows the good sites and where to find which birds. Co-operative and service-minded. Contact: baganbirdwatching001@gmail.com.

Spot-breasted Parrotbill, Paradoxornis guttaticollis. A small group of this charismatic bird was found in the final hour on Mount Victoria.		Chestnut Bunting, Emberiza rutilans. A 'tick' at Kalaw 12.12 2012.

 

Itinerary

8.12 Departure with Qatar Airways at 10:20 with stop-over in Doha, Qatar.
9.12 Arrival early morning in Yangon. Transport to Hlawga Park birding around mid-day. Late
afternoon flight to Heho. Transport to Nyaung Shwe, Lake Inle.
10.12 Morning birding around northern parts of Lake Inle. Early afternoon transport to Kalaw,
with one longer stop east of town. Birding north of Kalaw in the evening.
11.12 Full day birding in the protected evergreen forest south and north of Ye-aye-kan
Reservoir, west of Kalaw.
12.12 Until mid-day around the Ye-aye-kan Reservoir. Afternoon transport to Heho and
evening flight to Nyaung U.
13.12 Morning birding around Sulamani and Sitsana Temples. Afternoon boat-ride south on
the Irrawaddy.
14.12 Transport from Nyaung U to Natmataung National Park. Birding en route.
15.12 Full day birding the higher elevations of Mount Victoria.
16.12 Full day birding both higher and mid-elevations of Mount Victoria.
17.12 Full day birding the lower elevations of Mount Victoria.
18.12 Full day birding both higher and mid-elevations of Mount Victoria.
19.12 Transport from Natmataung National Park back to Nyaung U. Birding en route.
20.12 Morning birding around Sulamani Temple. Evening flight to Yangon.
21.12 Early morning flight back to Sweden via Doha (12 hour transfer).

Map of south central Myanmar

Our main destinations pointed out.

Daily log

December 9th

At the check-in desk at Arlanda Airport, Stockholm on the departure date December 8th we were initially told that we unfortunately could not board the flight since we didn't have a valid visa to Myanmar. After some prolonged discussions the Qatar Air staff finally let us board the flight after showing them a copy of our mail correspondence with Moe “proving” we had pre-arranged visa-on-arrival waiting for us in Yangon! I guess the in flight Scotch never had been more righteous.
After this things went smoothly all the way to Yangon arriving 06.30. Immigration procedures went swiftly and we were met by a representative of Myanmar Travel Expert. We settled the last financial issues and then we were on our way in a taxi to Hlawga Park just north of Yangon. We paid a small entrance fee eager to start birding. We soon made the first stop along the loop gravel track running through a small part of the northern parts of the park. Our target was primarily the endemic subspecies davisoni of Stripe-throated Bulbul. After a few stops with commoner species we stayed a little longer at a wooden bridge over a small creek. Here we had a nice flock of Rosy Minivets with one Swinhoe's Minivet mixed in. Also Forest Wagtail, a pair of Crested Goshawks and a larger unidentified pigeon... A few leeches were also encountered. Next stop gave a party of Racket-tailed Treepie, Greater Necklaced and White-crested Laughers. A Besra perched for quite a while and our first Dusky Warbler skulked in a thicket. A few other birds were found and not seen later in the trip among them: Asian Brown Flycatcher, Ruby-cheeked Sunbird, Olive-backed Sunbird and Chestnut-headed Bee-eater. Activity dropped naturally mid-day and by 13.30 we headed back to the airport for the afternoon flight to Heho. At Heho Airport we were met by Ko Pan and it was already dusk when we headed east to Nyaung Shwe and the famous Lake Inle. After checking in at Remember Inn Guest House we went for a grill buffet.

Jerdon's Bush Chat, Saxicola jerdoni. A last stronghold at the northern parts of Lake Inle.		Black-headed Greenfinch, Chloris ambigua. North of Kalaw 10.12 2012.

December 10th

Although we wanted an early start Ko Pan convinced us into leaving the jetty at Nyaung Shwe not earlier than 07.15, he said heavy fog would be on the lake preventing any earlier excursions. We had breakfast 06.30 and then walked through the town until we reached the jetty (GPS1), seeing and hearing Olive-backed Pipit, Yellow-browed and Dusky Warblers, Coppersmith Barbet and Paddyfield Pipit along the way. At the jetty a lot of traffic was already going on, with a lot of tourists being shipped back and forth. And there was no sign of any fog(!). We traveled south along the main canal to the lake (it took approximately 30 minutes to reach the northeastern end of Lake Inle), halfway there Ko Pan spotted a male Jerdon's Bush Chat. When we turned around the longboat we actually found a pair, a good start! Flocks of Brown-headed and Black-headed Gulls were abundant. At the northern end of the lake there is a “birdwatching center” (GPS2), which in fact is a few buildings and decks out in the lake from where there is a good viewpoint. A lot of ducks and waterbirds were present, including a few flocks of Ferruginous Ducks flying by. In the reed-beds we soon found Black-browed Reed Warblers, Siberian Stonechats and Plain Prinias. Two immature Eastern Marsh Harriers made an appearance. This was a great place and we were a bit unhappy that we hadn't pushed hard enough for an early start. Being at this platform at dawn would have been a bliss. Large gatherings of Coots and Spot-billed Ducks with singles of other waterfowl species. We soon jumped in the boat again to search for a closer look on the famous Bush Chat. In a more narrow canal running north-north-west (GPS3) we soon found another pair of Jerdon's and had great views. Also two different Striated Grassbirds were found as well as a few Shrikes and Swallows. We were a bit confused with the smallish-looking grey-backed Sand Martins present. Are these bird really ordinary Sand Martins or are they Pale Martins?... After visiting a little market we started going back north to Nyaung Shwe being back at the jetty at 10.30. By now activity of passerines had dropped. We went for a lunch and then embarked on the 2 hour drive to Kalaw. Before we reached Kalaw, Ko Pan made a stop at a small valley with rice paddies for a Collared Myna stake-out (GPS4). Soon we found a few Great Mynas and to our relief a Collared Myna nicely posed for a long time on cattle. We boosted our list with Wire-tailed Swallows and a Black-winged Kite.

    After a swift check-in at our hotel in Kalaw we went for an afternoon/evening birding session walking uphill northbound. Initially through grassy scrub and disperse pines later on more deciduous forest. A small flock of Black-headed Greenfinches was nice, the first Burmese Shrike, Chestnut-capped Babblers and a few Japanese Tits. We followed a steep hillside and across the deep valley a flock of Dusky Crag-Martins flew around. After walking 1,5 h (GPS5) we reached a small pocket of forest just below a temple called Ma Naw Hla, we spent the last minutes of sunlight here and found a rather out-of-range first-year male Ultramarine Flycatcher (GPS6), also Radde's Warbler, Rufescent Prinia, and Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-Babblers called from the opposite side of the valley. It was all dark when we got back to town.

December 11th

Today would turn out to be an outstanding birding day! We started well before sunrise bringing a packed breakfast from our hotel. Ko Pan met us early with a cab, we drove for 20 minutes south until we reached the eastern borders of the protected evergreen forest around Ye-aye-kan (GPS7). At the break of dawn Ko Pan took us on small paths through rice paddies and fields for a couple of hundred meters until we reached the bottom of a deep valley running west. Activity during the first hours was intense to say the least. New birds popped up everywhere and calls echoed through the forest. Bird-waves were abundant and we had a hard time keeping up the pace. We followed a small creek going uphill for most of the morning. We had Orange-bellied Leafbird, hundreds of Phylloscopus-warblers, many Dark-backed Sibias, Black-eared Shrikebabbler, Mrs Gould's Sunbird, a male Little Pied Flycatcher. When we reached the top of the valley at a small ridge a family group of 4 Burmese Yuhinas suddenly appeared close to the track! (GPS8) We got good views as the flock slowly moved away. With the main target bagged we continued along this ridge for another hour then downhill until we reached the upper reservoir (GPS9). After a quick break on the embankment where an Himalayan Buzzard soared we went inside the lush forest once again and soon we stumbled upon a large feeding flock scoring Speckled Piculet, Blyth's Shrike-babbler, Hume's Treecreeper, and a lot of white-eyes of three species. Further on we had a loose nervous flock of 45+ feeding Green Pigeons, both Wedge-tailed and Pin-tailed Pigeons were noted. At mid-day we walked still north-west and soon reached the northern border of the forest reserve. We had lunch at a Nepalese Restaurant popular among trekking tourists. From this view point we had some Cook's Swift but none Darkrumped which we hoped for. After a spicy lunch we headed back southeast going back to the forest – still adding marvelous birds: Blue-bearded Bee-eater, a flock of locally rare Black-throated Laughers and another party of Lesser Necklaced Laughers. A showy Marten's Warbler called with a repeated “chup”-call and a sudden Pale Blue Flycatcher disappeared too soon. We also had a good look at an adult soaring Northern Goshawk. At late afternoon we reached the lower reservoir and slowly started the descent going east along a jeep track. White-crowned Forktail showed off and Red-billed Blue Magpies were noisy. We left the forest behind at dusk and continued through cultivated lands and pine wood all the way back to Kalaw town, walking the last hour in pitch darkness. We were aroused by the experience but rather stiff in our legs when we reached our hotel. Unfortunately, throughout the day, Jonas had struggled with a serious stomach disorder, leaving him rather tired and with a complete lack of energy. Tomas and I had a quick dinner at a nearby place where we ran into the Birdtour Asia group lead by James Eaton having just arrived from Bagan/Mt Victoria. We had quick exchange of information, getting some valuable clues on which habitat to search for the tricky Hooded Treepie in Bagan.

Blue-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis athertoni, gave a tropical touch to the birding at Ye-aye-kan

December 12th

Our last morning at Kalaw, Jonas was still exhausted but still decided to join in after having a Coca Cola-breakfast. Ko Pan and a cab awaited us early and we reached the north-eastern perimeters of the forest reserve at perfect timing. At the adjacent rice paddies we heard 2-3 different Black-tailed Crakes calling, although non-responsive. In nice morning sunlight we added new birds constantly, a pair of Spectacled Barwings performed well (GPS10), nice since we only heard them yesterday. Some migrants including Daurian Redstart, Chestnut Bunting and Radde's Warbler. A new Seicercus-warbler called, this time “chu-rrp”, from scrubs at the forest border, a Grey-crowned Warbler. We slowly proceeded along the jeep track inside the forest heading for the reservoir. The activity wasn't as good as yesterday, one of the best birds was probably a Scaly Thrush in shadowed muddy understorey at the bottom of the deep valley, although disappearing all too fast. We added a few more Marten's Warblers, a male White-tailed Robin, a party of Silver-eared Mesias, and Davison's Leaf Warblers. Up at the reservoir a few small flocks of Pin-tailed Green Pigeons flew by, and a flock of 10 Black-throated Bushtits hurried across the clearing. White-capped Redstart and Blue Whistling Thrush at the embankment. We followed the smaller track running on the east side of the first (lower) reservoir until we reached the upper reservoir, here Ko Pan found us a superb Asian Stubtail showing off on top of a large trunk for a short while before shooting away. In slow pace we started to walk back. We were picked up by the cab at the same spot we started at 12.30 heading back to Kalaw for check-out and heading to Heho to catch our evening flight to Bagan. We said farewell
to Ko Pan and thanked him deeply for an excellent staying in Shan. There was some kind of misunderstanding about how long time the cab-journey to Heho should take. We passed a few nice areas that looked potentially good without stopping only to get to the airport way too early. The journey takes about 45 minutes. We arrived at Bagan at dark and went directly to New Park Hotel, a rather scruffy place. After dinner at an Indian Restaurant we met our guide Ko Thet and made some plans for our upcoming Mount Victoria-trip.

Ultramarine Flycatcher, Ficedula superciliaris aestigma. First-winter male, north of Kalaw, id based on combination of size, breast-pattern, a prominent white wing-bar, blue-greyish tinge to the mantle and calls. This should represent as far east as this flycatcher goes.		Burmese Yuhina,Yuhina humilis clarki. The best known place in the world for this species? Ye-ayekan!

December 13th

Leaving the evergreen forests behind and entering the Burmese Dry Zone most birds were new this day. We started the day by going for a quick look at the pair of Laggar Falcons at Sulamani Pagoda (GPS11). In perfect morning sunlight we had a great view of one adult bird. And before we knew it both White-throated Babblers and Burmese Bush Larks were added, the two easy endemics. We then raced down to Sitsana for the biggest quest of today; finding the Treepie and the Minivet. North of the pagoda there are some scattered acacia trees and also some large cactus-trees that the Treepie apparently favor. We spread out. When “pishing” at a flock of Plain Prinias suddenly a star male Siberian Rubythroat popped up from a pile of scrub. Minutes turned to half an hour, and one hour came. We had some views of the local 'xanthocycla' Eurasian Collared Dove and one 'yamethini' Long-billed Pipit, many 'burmanicus' Vinousbreasted Starling and a sole Brown Prinia. THEN, “Treepie!” echoed and we all ran! A Hooded Treepie was feeding not surprisingly inside one of the cactus-trees. Taking its time, looking here,
looking there. At just that moment a male Jerdon's Minivet called and flew right past us and then perched. Great stuff! (GPS12) Now we could relax. For another one-two hours we walked back and forth around the Sitsana Temple. Unfortunately we could not flush any Quails. We encountered at least seven Jerdon's Minivet at four occasions and got some nice sound recordings. After lunch at Old Bagan we went to the jetty (GPS13) and arranged a boat ride on the river. After going downriver for about one hour, with surprisingly few waterbirds around we reached a muddy bank where we made a longer stop (GPS14). We left the boat and walked the bank south until we reached a small grassy island. There where quite a few waders on the muddy bank: 5+ Lesser Sand Plover, 30+ Little Ringed Plover, 1 Kentish Plover, 4 Wood Sandpiper, and 15+ Temminck's Stints. Wagtails where plentiful, mostly 'leucopsis' but also a few Yellow and two Citrine. We reached the areas with elephant grass and then continued along the sandbank south-east. At very far distance we scoped a Great Stone-curlew together with a pair of red-listed River Lapwings. As the afternoon went late, the light conditions became increasingly pleasant and we had a great time here, birding on the Irrawaddy. One of the reasons going here is the abundant White-tailed Stonechat, we found around 5 birds, other birds which we didn't see for the rest of the trip included a party of Striated Babblers, one Streaked Weaver, a few small flocks of Red Avadavats, Zitting Cisticola, 30+Sand Lark, 2 splendid male and one dull young Pied Harrier. At some distance two Painted Storks soared for a while. On the return ride we found another pair of River Lapwings and a distant hunting Laggar Falcon. It was dark when we got back and we quickly went back to Nyaung U for a dinner and some sleep since we had an early start tomorrow.

December 14th

Ko Thet picked us up at 6 AM. The car was a 4WD Mazda jeep and looked promisingly wellmaintained. At dawn we had reached Chauk, south of Bagan, for some last minute shopping. We stored up with beer, soft drinks and fruits before we crossed the bridge over Irrawaddy heading west. After an hour we made a first stop at some fields, for some random birding. No hoped for Quails but the only Thick-billed Warbler of the trip. We continued west and not until late morning we reached the first small hills and started to take more and longer birding stops. We often walked along the road and let our driver pick us up further on. Few vehicles on the
road, so it was not so much disturbance. We failed with White-rumped Falcon and Neglected Nuthatch (GPS15) close to Kanzunma but added Blue-winged Leafbird, Grey-headed Parakeet and Blue Rock Thrush. After lunch (Ai Gyi) (GPS16) we made some longer stops close to Nagabwet. At an area with larger trunks and trees we heard a distant heavy long drumming, probably a White-bellied Woodpecker. And at the same spot some Hill Mynas before a Flameback flew across the road and soon a pair of Himalayan Flamebacks showed off. At another stop at a bamboo stand we had a quick look of a Pale-chinned Blue Flycatcher, a good
find! The last longer stop was at a scenic place with some small houses surrounded by rice paddies (called Kyauk-Swee). There were some Alexandrine and Red-breasted Parakeets here, Rufous Treepies called, and we saw Golden-fronted Leafbird. Although we wanted to spend more time here to take advantage of the evening peak of activity we were forced to move on. We had to be in Kanpetlet before the police station closed for the day. A large flock of feeding parakeets close by the road was our last stop and we got scope-views of Red-breasted, Greyheaded and Blossom-headed Parakeets! (GPS17) We passed Saw, and just in time, not long until sunset we checked in at the police station in Kanpetlet, followed by Chin State border office and the Forest Department to settle all papers needed to visit Natmataung National Park. Quite exhausted we finally reached the Pine Wood Villa and were warmly welcomed by the hotel staff. After a shower (cool for some of us and hot for one of us...) we had a first of many nice dinners to come. The highest peak of Myanmar, Mount Victoria was the main destination of our trip and the main reason for going to Myanmar at all. And now we had 4 full days of birding to spend, the excitement was at its top.

December 15th

Alarm set at 4.45 AM. An hour later we were on our way. Not long until the first Grey Nightjar sat on the road ahead, 2 more before we reached higher grounds. Around 06.40 we stopped. We started around 2700 masl where the warm morning colours painted the grassy slopes and old pines of the top ridge of Mount Victoria. As always at a new place the first hour is hectic with new birds all around. Most importantly we had a few duetting Mount Victoria Babax (GPS18). In flowering rhododendron-trees different species shared the precious nectar. Brown-capped and Assam Laughingthrushes, Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babblers, Streak-throated Barwings (actually our only encounters throughout our staying was this morning!), White-browed Fulvettas, Ashy-throated Warblers among the multiple Buff-barred Warblers and Fire-tailed Sunbirds. We had been warned about rather cool and windy conditions. But I guess we were blessed, because today and the following three days we had a perfectly crisp clear sky, no winds and not cooler than 5-10 degrees C early morning time. We walked, and walked. Along the jeep track heading north across the mountain. We passed the turn-off to the summit (which we didn't visit (apparently not worth it bird-wise)), from where the track went slightly downhill or straight for the rest of the day. We reached the evergreen broadleaved forests and new birds turned up: Yellow-billed Blue Magpies, Rusty-fronted Barwings, a long awaited White-browed Nuthatch in a feeding flock. The activity of birds was excellent the whole day with new bird waves all the time, many of them containing Bar-throated and Red-tailed Minlas, single Green and Black-eared Shrike-babblers. We had a skittish flock of 40+ Grey-sided Thrushes before we found a nice loose set of party with three Himalayan Cutias and a pair of Blyth's Shrike-babblers (no Black-headed though...). As we continued downhill we met some locals working on a road construction, moving large boulders mainly with simple shovels. There was more bamboo the further down we got, and here we got the only Whistler's Warbler of the trip calling repeatedly. Two separate flocks of Brown Bullfinches flew overhead and two Black Eagles swiftly crossed the sky. We had a quick lunch which from today on contained two boiled eggs each, a soft drink, something called “bread” with some all too sweet jam, and a life-saving coffee (from powder...). Refueled we went on. Later in the afternoon we reached very nice lush evergreen forest with high trees. Jonas fell behind and had a marvelous bird wave with 50+ Nepal Fulvettas and a possible Broad-billed Warbler (which got away). Around a bend we met two youngsters with a rifle each, piching... It was getting dark at 17.20 as we jumped in the car. Approximately we walked around 20 kms, and according to Ko Thet, if we had continued not too far we had reached more secondary habitat before the road come to a another village (Mindat) and exits the national park. Few birders seem to have explored the latter parts of this road. Almost 2 hours later we were back at Pine Villa, making a short stop at the regular site for Hodgson's Frogmouth. Most surprisingly a silent Frogmouth were found on a branch in flashlight for a very short time, leaving two of us with only an eye-reflection. No calls were heard. We ended the day
with another great dinner, Myanmar Beer, and the usual summary of the daily sightings.

Mount Victoria Babax, Babax woodi. Vocal early mornings at high elevations.		Chestnut-headed Tesia, Cettia castaneocoronata. Floor-bound on mid elevations.

White-browed Nuthatch, Sitta victoriae. The bird of the mountain.		Hume's Leaf-Warbler, Phylloscopus humei mandellii. Greener above than the western nominate

December 16th

Our second day on Mount Victoria. We started at an area slightly lower than yesterday, at a small open area close to an old hut. Small flocks of Little Buntings called around us, according to Ko Thet this area was particularly good for Brown Bush Warbler, although it would be a big surprise to hear one calling at this time of year. We walked uphill a couple of hundred meters and found a few high-altitude species that we missed yesterday, most importantly Black-bibbed Tit. Also a flock of Yellow-breasted Greenfinches, a flock of Burmese Bushtits, some Buffthroated Warblers, an unshy but well-hidden Abberant Bush Warbler and a Slender-billed Oriole. For most of this day we walked south (that is back toward Pine Villa), slightly downhill for most parts. We found less birds than yesterday but one great bird wave contained 25 Rufous-winged Fulvettas, Black-faced Warbler, Green Shrike-babbler, Grey-crowned Warbler and a few Minlas. The forest was rather tough to bird, with thick understorey, often bamboo, at a few places the floor was more visible and at these places we tried for different ground-dwellers. We had luck with two different Chestnut-headed Tesias, one tiny Chin Hills Wren-Babbler, and in the afternoon at lower altitudes Striped Laughingthrush. Further down the track was steeper and birding was even harder, we didn't find any hoped for Parrotbills at different good-looking clearings with bamboo. Blue-winged Minlas, Eyebrowed Thrush, Slaty-backed Flycatcher, and late in the afternoon a large flock of very vocal Crested Finchbills ended the day.

December 17th

Today we focused fully on the lower elevations. There is a track going north, starting close to Pine Villa, that follows the forest edge, through semi-cultivated slopes, and from time to time bamboo. We walked the track back and forth one time in the morning and one time in the afternoon. And had lunch at Pine Villa in between. In the morning there were quite some activity and we had a lot of different singing species that we struggled to get a glimpse on. We managed to find Spot-breasted Scimitar-Babbler, Chin Hills Wren Babbler, Assam and Striped Laughingthrushes and 15+ Slaty-backed Flycatchers. A small flock of Black-throated Parrotbills was one of the highlights (GPS19). At the same time we had a Spotted Wren Babbler singing close by. We had two chestnut-winged Treron-pigeons that we had a quick view of, we thought the face looked rather unmarked suggesting Ashy-headed Green Pigeon, which would've been a good find, but we're not 100% sure they were not Thick-billed Pigeons after all. Two short glimpses of Red-faced Liocichla although a few more were heard. Birding was generally very
tough since the vegetation was thicker than ever, and birds were elusive. A few feeding flocks contained Blue-winged Minlas, two Grey-crowned Warblers and 5 Nepal Fulvettas. In the afternoon we went back, we added a few species that we missed in the morning Rusty-capped Fulvetta being the best. However we couldn't find any Blue-winged Laughingthrushes sometimes observed here. Later in the evening there were quite a lot of flycatchers and warblers active. Best was probably a White-gorgeted Flycatcher and a White-browed Fantail. After dinner we made a more extensive search for Hodgson's Frogmouth but we couldn't hear or see any. At least two Collared Scops-owls called and in flashlight we had fantastic views of an Indian Giant Flying Squirrel feeding in a flowering tree.

December 18th

Last day on Mt Victoria! Most targets were nailed and we used the last day to get some last looks of good birds up high. Since the first day was extremely good in terms of bird waves and general activity we initially thought about doing the same areas once more. We started high and soon connected once again with Mount Victoria Babax, Burmese Bushtit, Black-bibbed Tit, Bar-tailed Treecreeper and Yellow-breasted Greenfinch. On a grassy plateau on top of the ridge a couple of unexpected Oriental Skylarks were flushed and in nearby oaks a final White-browed Nuthatch performed. At the very turn-off point to the top we had a quick coffee-break and before heading downhill going north we found a classically swift-moving flock of 20 Black-throated Parrotbills! For 1-2 hours we walked north, but soon found that activity wasn't as good as we hoped for. We had Green and Black-eared Shrike-babbler before we decided to turn around. We went back to the place we had started the same morning but this time we walked south (back toward Pine Villa). This was a wise move since after just half an hour in a loose party of Rusty-fronted Barwings and Red-tailed Minlas suddenly a few Spot-breasted Parrotbills showed up, and we finally had fantastic views (GPS20). Later on after lunch around a bend we heard some heavy movements up a grassy hill, we moved quickly ahead hoping for pheasants, but to our surprise there was some kind of mammal running away, 10 minutes later we had the answer: Yellow-throated Martens! The biggest surprise of the day was among some nice bamboo stands when we heard and saw a Seicercus-warbler. Initially we thought Grey-crowned although it should be confined to the lower parts of the mountain. But the call was not what we expected as it called with a soft clearly deflected 'diu', 'diu'. We noted: One visible wing-band, but not very strong, grey between the distinct black lateral crown stripes and slightly below. Yellowish eye-ring. A lot of white on the two outermost tail feathers. Altogether we found the bird to be a Bianchi's Warbler! (According to Birds of South-East Asia, Bianchi's Warbler is not listed from W Myanmar) When we played Bianchi's Warbler on the mp3-player the bird got very agitated! (GPS21) The rest of the afternoon we casually walked along the track hoping in vain for something new to turn up. The last half an hour we spent around the cultivated areas just above Pine Villa and here we had a few Chin Hills Wren Babblers and Brown-flanked Bush Warblers. After dinner we settled the bill with the hotel and prepared for leaving tomorrow.

Indian Giant Flying Squirrel, Petaurista philippensis. Found during another unsuccessful quest for Frogmouths.

December 19th

The alarm went off ridiculously early, before 4.00. We had a quick breakfast, packed the gear, said farewell to the staff and were on the road by 4.30. By sunrise at 06.40 we reached the same scenic “valley” with rice paddies and small huts (Kyauk-Swee) (GPS22) that we stopped at on December 14th. In the early morning light we had a lot of parakeets flying overhead, both Alexandrine and Grey-headed were noted. A Striated Heron flew along a small stream, and a White-breasted Waterhen ran across. In a distant barren tree two Rufous Treepies perched but there was another smaller bird that caught our attention, a Hooded Treepie! We got closer and had great views, even watching the treepie catch a bumblebee in the air! Closer to Nagabwet we made more stops, a large flock of Yellow-footed Green Pigeons (GPS23), some Bluethroated Flycatchers, Streaked Spiderhunter, a perched Mountain Hawk-Eagle. Further on we had a few drumming woodpeckers, suddenly one was very close. After walking a few hundred meters more we found the bird: A splendid crazy-looking White-bellied Woodpecker (GPS24). After Nagabwet we walked for a long time along the road, by now morning had turned into midday. A feeding flock contained Brown-cheeked Fulvettas, Grey-throated Babblers and two Yellow-bellied Warblers. At least two different groups of Laughingthrushes were heard and glimpsed, but unconclusive looks. A miniature Collared Falconet sat on top of a dead tree and a showy pair of Red-headed Trogon (GPS25) were our last birds close to Nagabwet. We continued toward drier and lower areas. Small Minivet was added. Around Kanzunma we made a serious effort to try to find Neglected Nuthatch, but without any luck. Ko Thet had seen the bird at this point last spring. We had Streak-throated and Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpeckers but no other tree-climbers. A flowering tree attracted a pair of Scarlet-backed Flowerpeckers and a Yellow-vented Flowerpecker. After 16.00 we started to drive more and bird less to cover some distance. We made very few stops since birdlife was more scarce as we entered the dry plains. Closer to Chauk we found a White-eyed Buzzard close to the road. We were back in Nyaung U at 19.00.

Hooded Treepie, Crypsirina cucullata. Superb views of a insect-eating bird in the foothills below Saw.		White-bellied Woodpecker, Dryocopus javensis feddeni. A drumming bird close to Nagabwet.

Tickell's Leaf Warbler, Phylloscopus affinis. A wintering bird in akacia close to Sulamani.		Siberian Rubythroat, Luscinia calliope. Usually skulkier than this one...

 

December 20th

Having seen the dry zone endemics, our last day in Bagan was unstressful. We rented bikes at our hotel, and at sunrise we approached Sulamani Pagoda. At a semi-large pagoda on the way you were apparently allowed to climb up to get some perspective. There were a few other tourists here and it was rather magical when the purple sun rose and warm colours painted the landscapes with hundreds of pagodas dotted out in all directions. Not to shift focus we had Yellow-streaked Warblers in the nearby scrub and a Red Turtle Dove flew by. At Sulamani we had amazing views of the Laggars as the pair mated at two occasions. We walked around for a couple of hours hoping for Quails but no luck. In an akacia we finally found two Tickell's Leaf Warblers. Other cool birds were at least two Siberian Rubythroats, a flock of Baya Weavers, Black Kite, Long-billed Pipit and many Dusky Warblers. At lunch time we headed back to town for some Myanmar food. For an hour or so we then sat at the Nyaung U jetty hoping that some birds would come by, but it was in the middle of the day and we didn't see much more than the bizarre view of two fat tourists floating downstream on two rubber rings... Then it was time to go back to the hotel to pack up. Tomas and I took a cab to the airport and Jonas stayed another couple of days before going to Mandalay and then further on to Thailand. Tomas and I took the evening flight to Yangon, then a cab directly to the Schwedagon Pagoda for an hours of sightseeing (lots of drongos and bats hunted back and forth). After this we met up with Moe from Myanmar Travel Expert, our contact-person before our trip and made a short summary of our trip. His hope was that eco-tourism in Myanmar will grow and thereby increase the awareness of nature conservation issues. We can only agree!

December 20th

An early cab to the airport for our morning flight to Doha. All procedures went smoothly and we were soon in the air filled with sweet memories of a highly recommendable journey.

Some site maps and comments

Hlawga Park

Northern Hlawga Park. Loop track barely visible on Google earth. Takes around 30-40 minutes to drive from Yangon International Airport to the Park HQ. Rather dry forest with smaller creeks and lakes. You can easily obtain an entrance ticket at the Park HQ (around 1000 MMK/car and 1000 MMK/pp). The gravel road takes maybe 30-60 minutes to drive. We managed to drive the loop twice in 5 hours with many birding stops. Best place was at a wooden bridge over a small creek. To look for: Pale-capped Pigeon, endemic subspecies of Stripe-throated Bulbul.

Lake Inle

We left the jetty at around 07.15 AM, it took around 30 minutes with the long boat to reach the platforms at the watching point at the northern end of the lake, including one stop for a pair of Jerdon's Bush Chat. After a short visit at a market place in north-west we headed back to Nyaung Shwe being there around 10.30 AM (by then bird activity was low). For this round trip we paid 22.000 MMK. According to Ko Pan the southern and eastern parts of Lake Inle are far less interesting from a birding perspective. To look for: Jerdon's Bush Chat, Collared Myna, Baer's Pochard

Kalaw

The first afternoon we focused on the northern hills of Kalaw, were the forest mostly was degraded. It took around 1,5 hour to reach the site where we had an Ultramarine Flycatcher close to the temple called Ma Naw Hla. Downhill, back to Kalaw it took 30 minutes to walk. Around the temple a small patch of partly degraded evergreen and deciduous forest remain, besides this the track was surrounded by scrub and pines.  We had 1,5 days to explore the evergreen forest  around Ye-aye-kan which probably is  the best accessible place in the world to see Burmese Yuhina. We found the forest being mostly  intact and around the reservoir in very good condition. In the periphery there were more signs of disruption. It took around 15-20 minutes to drive from Kalaw to the place where the jeep track enters the forest. Around this entrance, there are surrounding rice paddies where we heard at least 2-3 Black-tailed Crakes and generally good birding on the last morning. To look for: Burmese Yuhina, Collared Myna, Marten's Warbler, Pin-tailed Pigeon, Wedge-tailed Pigeon, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Black-headed Greenfinch, Spectacled Barwing, Pale Blue Flycatcher.

Bagan

To see all endemics and the Laggar Falcons it took us just one morning. The place however, is spectacular, so it would be a shame to cut out the pagodas to maximize the birding itinerary. Daylight in mid-December was around 06.20-17.20. From Old Bagan Jetty it took around 1 hour to reach the drop-off point at the small river islet where we had White-tailed Stonechat, Great Stone-curlew, River Lapwing, Painted Stork, Sand Lark, Striated Babbler and Pied Harrier. To look for: Jerdon's Minivet, Hooded Treepie, White-throated Babbler, Burmese Bushlark, Laggar Falcon, and distinct endemic subspecies of Long-billed Pipit, Eurasian Collared Dove and Vinous-breasted Starlings.

We've not included any further information or maps of Mount Victoria (or Nagabwet area) since that wouldn't provide much useful information since all/most birding is done roadside and with a guide. However some GPS coordinates are listed.

List of birds: Myanmar, December 9th - 21st 2012

Strictly following IOC World Bird List 3.3 (Jan 2013) (www.worldbirdnames.org). In total: 341 species (11 species heard only, 8 species on the IUCN Red List). Subspecies notations are foremost literature-based.

1. Rufous-throated Partridge Arborophila rufogularis
1 called at lower elevations Mount Victoria 16.12.

Partridge sp. Arborophila sp.
1 seen briefly on the northern slope of Mt Victoria 15.12.

2. Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus
A family group of 1 ♂ + 5 ♀ at Kalaw 11.12.

3. Lesser Whistling Duck Dendrocygna javanica
20 Lake Inle 10.12.

4. Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea
10 Irrawaddy 13.12, 1 W Nagabwet 19.12, 1 Irrawaddy 20.12.

5. Gadwall Anas strepera strepera
1 pair Lake Inle 10.12.

6. Indian Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha haringtoni
50+ Lake Inle 10.12.

7. Northern Pintail Anas acuta
5 Lake Inle 10.12.

8. Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca NT
30+ Lake Inle 10.12. In flight only.

9. Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula
5+ Lake Inle 10.12.

10. Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
6 Hlawga Park 9.12, 20+ Lake Inle

11. Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala NT
2 soaring Irrawaddy 13.12.

12. Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans
10+ Hlawga Park 9.12, 3 Irrawaddy 13.12.

13. Striated Heron Butorides striata
1 Kyauk Swee, W Nagabwet 19.12.

14. Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii
2 Bagan 20.12. The famous white wing-tips seen...

Pond Heron sp. Ardeola sp.
4 Hlawga Park 9.12, 2 Lake Inle 10.12, 1 Heho 12.12, 1 Kanzunma 14.12, 1 E Kanzunma
19.12.

15. Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus
1 Hlawga Park 9.12, 15+ Lake Inle 10.12, 25+ Heho 12.12, 1 Irrawaddy 13.12, 30+ E
Kanzunma 19.12, 5+ Bagan 20.12.

16. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
3 Irrawaddy 13.12.

17. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea manilensis
3 Lake Inle 10.12.

18. Great Egret Ardea alba modesta
1 Hlawga Park 9.12, 2 Irrawaddy 13.12.

19. Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia intermedia
5 Lake Inle 10.12.

20. Little Egret Egretta garzetta garzetta
1 Hlawga Park 9.12, 5 Lake Inle 10.12, 10 Irrawaddy 13.12, 1 Bagan 20.12.

21. Little Cormorant Microcarbo niger
1 Hlawga Park 9.12, 50+ Lake Inle 10.12, 15+ Irrawaddy 13.12.

22. Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster NT
4 Hlawga Park 9.12.

23. Crested Honey Buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus
2 Bagan 13.12, 4 e.r. 14.12, 1 Mt Victoria 15 & 17.12, 2 e.r. 19.12, 5 Bagan 20.12.

24. Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus vociferus
1 E Kalaw 10.12, 1 Sulamani 20.12.

25. Black Kite Milvus migrans
1 Sulamani 20.12.

26. Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela burmanicus
1 Kyauk Swee, W Nagabwet 19.12.

27. Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus aeruginosus
2 young birds Irrawaddy 13.12.

28. Eastern Marsh Harrier Circus spilonotus
2 Lake Inle 10.12, 1 flying north at Kalaw 11.12.

29. Pied Harrier Circus melanoleucos
2 ♂ + 1 1y Irrawaddy 13.12.

30. Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus indicus
2 Hlawga Park 9.12.

31. Shikra Accipiter badius poliopsis
1 Hlawga Park 9.12, 1 male Kalaw 11.12, 1 Kalaw 12.12, 1 e.r. 14.12.

32. Besra Accipiter virgatus affinis
2 Hlawga Park 9.12.

33. Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus
1 Sitsana 13.12.

34. Northern Goshawk Accipiter gentilis
1 ad soaring then going north at Kalaw 11.12.

35. White-eyed Buzzard Butastur teesa
1 W of Chauk 19.12.

36. Himalayan Buzzard Buteo burmanicus
1 Kalaw 11.12, 5 Kalaw 12.12, 2 Sitsana 13.12, 1 Mt Victoria 18.12.

37. Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis
1-4 birds seen daily Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

38. Mountain Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus nipalensis nipalensis
1 Nagabwet 19.12.

39. Collared Falconet Microhierax caerulescens burmanicus
1 Nagabwet 19.12.

40. Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus interstinctus
2 Kalaw 11.12, 1 Irrawaddy 13.12, 1 e.r. 14.12, 1 W of Chauk 19.12, 1 Sulamani 20.12.

41. Laggar Falcon Falco jugger NT
1 pair Sulamani 13 & 20.12, 1 hunting Irrawaddy 13.12.

42. White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus phoenicurus
1 Kyauk Swee, W Nagabwet 19.12.

43. Black-tailed Crake Porzana bicolor
3 heard at the ricepaddies at the entrance to Ye-aye-kan 11.12.

44. Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio poliocephalus
20+ Lake Inle 10.12.

45. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus chloropus
1 Hlawga Park 9.12, 2 Lake Inle 10.12, 1-2 Ye-aye-kan 11-12.12.

46. Eurasian Coot Fulica atra atra
300+ Lake Inle 10.12.

47. Great Stone-curlew Esacus recurvirostris
1 Irrawaddy 13.12. Rarely seen at this site anymore.

48. River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii NT
2 pairs Irrawaddy 13.12.

49. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius
30+ Irrawaddy 13.12.

50. Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus
1 Irrawaddy 13.12.

51. Lesser Sand Plover Charadrius mongolus
5 Irrawaddy 13.12.

52. Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus
10+ Lake Inle 10.12.

53. Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus
1 Lake Inle 10.12.

54. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
1 E Kalaw 10.12, 1 Sulamani 20.12.

55. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola
4 Irrawaddy 13.12.

56. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
3 Irrawaddy 13.12, 1 Sulamani 20.12.

57. Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii
15+ Irrawaddy 13.12.

58. Brown-headed Gull Chroicocephalus brunnicephalus
40+ Lake Inle 13.12

59. Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus
40+ Lake Inle 13.12.

60. Rock Dove Columba livia
Seen daily except on Mt Victoria.

61. Ashy Wood Pigeon Columba pulchricollis
1 heard on the north slope of Mt Victoria 15.12.

62. Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis
3 Kalaw 11.12, 10+ Kalaw 12.12, 2 W Nagabwet 19.12.

63. Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto xanthocycla
7 Bagan 13.12, 10+ Sulamani 20.12. This distinct subspecies is endemic in the dry central lowlands of Myanmar.

64. Red Turtle Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica
5+ Sulamani 20.12.

65. Spotted Dove Spilopelia chinensis chinensis
Seen daily except on Mt Victoria.

66. Yellow-footed Green Pigeon Treron phoenicopterus viridifrons
29 Nagabwet 19.12.

67. Pin-tailed Green Pigeon Treron apicauda apicauda
45+ Kalaw 11.12, 10+ Kalaw 12.12.

68. Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon Treron sphenurus sphenurus
2 Kalaw 11.12.

Green Pigeon sp. Treron sp.
2 Mt Victoria 17.12, 1 Mt Victoria 18.12 (probably Thick-billed).

69. Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria
5 e.r. 14.12, 10 e.r. 19.12.

70. Grey-headed Parakeet Psittacula finschii
10+ e.r. 14.12, 30+ e.r. 19.12.

71. Blossom-headed Parakeet Psittacula roseata
3 E Saw 14.12, 2 e.r. 19.12.

72. Red-breasted Parakeet Psittacula alexandri fasciata
20+ E Saw 14.12.

Parakeet sp. Psittacula sp.
40+ e.r. 14.12, 50+ e.r. 19.12.

73. Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis intermedius
2 Lake Inle 10.12, 1 Irrawaddy 13.12, 2 e.r. 19.12, 1 Sulamani 20.12.

74. Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis bengalensis
1 N Kalaw 10.12.

75. Green-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus tristis tristis
1 Hlawga Park 9.12, 1 Kalaw 11.12, 1 Nagabwet 19.12.

76. Collared Scops Owl Otus lettia lettia
2-3 calling 17.12.

77. Collared Owlet Glaucidium brodiei brodiei
2 calling Kalaw 11.12.

78. Spotted Owlet Athene brama pulchra
1 Sitsana 13.12.

Owlet sp. Glaucidium/Athene sp.
1 Kalaw 12.12.

Large owl sp. Bubo/Strix(?) sp.
One large owl sat by the road and was flushed by our car at mid-elevations Mt Victoria one early morning still in darkness. Unfortunately we could not secure any field marks. 18.12.

79. Hodgson's Frogmouth Batrachostomus hodgsoni hodgsoni
1 seen briefly in flashlight Mt Victoria at the regular spot 15.12. None heard calling.

80. Grey Nightjar Caprimulgus jotaka hazarae
Seen at 5 occasions in car headlights Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

81. Himalayan Swiftlet Aerodramus brevirostris
10 (ssp rogersi) Kalaw 11.12. 1 (ssp brevirostris) Mt Victoria 16.12.

82. Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis infumatus
100+ Yangon Airport 9.12, 20 Bagan 13.12, 50+ e.r. 14 & 19.12, 50+ Sulamani 20.12.

83. Cook's Swift Apus cooki
5 Kalaw (Nepalese View Point Restaurant) 11.12.

84. House Swift Apus nipalensis nipalensis
1 Sulamani 13.12.

85. Red-headed Trogon Harpactes erythrocephalus erythrocephalus
1 pair Nagabwet 19.12.

86. Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis affinis
2 Heho 9.12, 3 Sitsana 13.12, 5 e.r. 14 & 19.12.

87. White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis perpulchra
Seen on 7 days. Max 7 Lake Inle 10.12.

88. Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis
2 Lake Inle 10.12, 1 Sulamani 13.12.

89. Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis
1 Irrawaddy 13.12.

90. Blue-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis athertoni athertoni
1 Kalaw 11.12.

91. Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis ferrugeiceps
1 Hlawga Park 9.12. Common Bagan – Nagabwet 13-14 & 19.12.

92. Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaulti leschenaulti
40 Hlawga Park 9.12.

93. Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops longirostris
1-2 Kanzunma 14 & 19.12, 5 Sulamani 20.12.

94. Great Barbet Megalaima virens virens
2 N Kalaw 10.12, 20+ Kalaw 11.12, 1 Kalaw 12.12, 10+ (ssp magnifica) daily Mt Victoria 14-18.12.

95. Lineated Barbet Megalaima lineata hodgsoni
2 heard Nagabwet 14.12, 5 Nagabwet 19.12.

96. Golden-throated Barbet Megalaima franklinii franklinii
Max 5 daily Mt Victoria 14-18.12.

97. Blue-throated Barbet Megalaima asiatica
4 Kalaw 11.12, 11 Kalaw 12.12, 4 Mt Victoria 17.12.

98. Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala indica
2 Nyaung Shwe 10.12, 6 Kanzunma 19.12.

99. Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla
1 Sulamani 13.12, 3 Sulamani 20.12.

100. Speckled Piculet Picumnus innominatus
1 Kalaw 11.12.

101. Rufous-bellied Woodpecker Dendrocopos hyperythrus hyperythrus
Max 3 daily Mt Victoria 14-18.12.

102. Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopos canicapillus
3 Kalaw 11.12, 1 Kalaw 12.12, 3 Kanzunma 19.12.

103. Stripe-breasted Woodpecker Dendrocopos atratus atratus
Max 2 daily Mt Victoria 14-18.12.

104. White-bellied Woodpecker Dryocopus javensis feddeni
1 heard Nagabwet 14.12, 3 Nagabwet 19.12.

105. Streak-throated Woodpecker Picus xanthopygaeus
2 Kanzunma 19.12.

106. Himalayan Flameback Dinopium shorii anguste
2 Nagabwet 14.12.

107. Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus
10 Kalaw 11.12, 3 e.r. 14.12, 10 Nagabwet 19.12.

108. Ashy Woodswallow Artamus fuscus
4 Hlawga Park 9.12, 3 Nyaung Shwe 10.12, 20 W Nagabwet 14.12.

109. Common Iora Aegithina tiphia
8 Hlawga Park 9.12, 2 Bagan 13.12, 2 Nagabwet 14 & 19.12, 5 Sulamani 20.12.

110. Large Cuckooshrike Coracina macei
2 Hlawga Park 9.12, 1 Nagabwet 14.12, 2 Mt Victoria 16.12, 3 Nagabwet 19.12.

111. Black-winged Cuckooshrike Coracina melaschistos
1 Kalaw 11.12, 2 Kanzunma 14.12.

112. Rosy Minivet Pericrocotus roseus
20 Hlawga Park 9.12.

113. Swinhoe's Minivet Pericrocotus cantonensis
1 Hlawga Park 9.12. Together with a larger party of Rosy Minivets.

114. Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus vividus
5 E Nagabwet 19.12.

115. Jerdon's Minivet Pericrocotus albifrons Endemic
7 Sitsana 13.12. Seen at four occasions during the morning.

116. Grey-chinned Minivet Pericrocotus solaris ssp
10 N Kalaw 10.12, 1 pair Mt Victoria 16.12.

117. Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus
2 Kalaw 11.12, max 4 Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

118. Short-billed Minivet Pericrocotus brevirostris
6+ Mt Victoria 17.12.

119. Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus speciosus
10-15+ Kalaw 11-12.12.

120. Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus
2 Lake Inle 10.12, 1 N Kalaw 10.12, 5 W Chauk 19.12, 3 Sulamani 20.12.

121. Burmese Shrike Lanius collurioides collurioides
1 N Kalaw 10.12, 5 Sitsana 13.12, 10+ W Chauk 14.12, 3 W Chauk 19.12, 5 Sulamani 20.12.

122. Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach tricolor
8 Lake Inle 10.12, 2 N Kalaw 10.12, 1 Kalaw 11.12, 2 Kalaw 12.12.

123. Grey-backed Shrike Lanius tephronotus
1 at a cultivated field just above Pine Villa, Mt Victoria 16.12.

124. White-bellied Erpornis Erpornis zantholeuca zantholeuca
5 Kalaw 11.12, 1 Kalaw 12.12.

125. Blyth's Shrike-babbler Pteruthius aeralatus
3 (ssp aeralatus) Kalaw 11.12, 2 (ssp validirostris) Mt Victoria 15.12.

126. Green Shrike-babbler Pteruthius xanthochlorus hybrida
1 15.12, 2 16.12, 1 18.12 Mt Victoria. Note the distinctive eye-ring on this subspecies.

127. Black-eared Shrike-babbler Pteruthius melanotis melanotis
1 Kalaw 11.12, 5 15.12, 1 16.12, 1 18.12 Mt Victoria.

128. Slender-billed Oriole Oriolus tenuirostris invisus
1 Mt Victoria 16.12, 1 Mt Victoria 17.12.

129. Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis diffusus
8 Hlawga Park 9.12, 1 Kanzunma 14.12, 1 W Nagabwet 19.12.

130. Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus xanthornus
3 W Nagabwet 19.12.

131. Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii traillii
5-15 Kalaw 11-12.12, 3-10 Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

132. Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus
Seen on 6 days.

133. Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus
Seen on 8 days.

134. Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus aeneus
2 Kalaw 11.12, 2 Nagabwet 19.12.

135.Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer
4 Hlawga Park 9.12.

136.Hair-crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus
10 Hlawga Park 9.12, 1 Kalaw 11.12, 15-20 Mt Victoria 16-18.12, 5 e.r. 19.12.

137. Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus
5 Nagabwet 19.12.

138. White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis
8 & 2 (ssp celsa) Kalaw 11 & 12.12, max 2 (ssp stanleyi) Mt Victoria 15-17.12.

139. White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola burmanica
1 Mt Victoria 17.12.

140. Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea
5 Hlawga Park 9.12, 1 Kalaw 12.12, 2 Nagabwet 14.12, 4 Nagabwet 19.12.

141. Yellow-billed Blue Magpie Urocissa flavirostris schaeferi
2 Mt Victoria (high-altitude) 15.12, 4 Mt Victoria (high-altitude) 16.12.

142. Red-billed Blue Magpie Urocissa erythroryncha
5 Kalaw 11-12.12, 4 Kanzunma 14.12.

143. Common Green Magpie Cissa chinensis
1 heard Kalaw 11.12.

144. Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda
5 e.r. 14.12, 3 e.r. 19.12.

145. Grey Treepie Dendrocitta formosae
3 heard Kalaw 11-12.12.

146. Racket-tailed Treepie Crypsirina temia
1 Hlawga Park 9.12.

147. Hooded Treepie Crypsirina cucullata NT Endemic
1 Sitsana 13.12, after hard work. 1 Kyauk Swee, W of Nagabwet 19.12, a nice bonus.

148. House Crow Corvus splendens insolens
Seen on 7 days.

149. Eastern Jungle Crow Corvus levaillantii
1 Bagan 13.12, 1 Kantemplet 18.12, 2 W Chauk 19.12, 5 Sulamani 20.12.

150. Yellow-bellied Fantail Chelidorhynx hypoxantha
Max 2 Mt Victoria (low-mid)16-18.12.

151. Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis calochrysea
Seen on 8 days. Most numerous 10 Kalaw 11.12.

152. Black-bibbed Tit Poecile hypermelaenus
7 Mt Victoria (high-altitude) 16.12, 5 Mt Victoria (high-altitude) 18.12. Confined to old large pines in open forest.

153. Japanese Tit Parus minor nubicolus
8 N Kalaw 10.12, max 5 Kalaw 11-12.12.

154. Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus yunnanensis
1 Mt Victoria 16.12, 1 Mt Victoria 17.12.

155. Yellow-cheeked Tit Parus spilonotus
(ssp. subviridis) Max 5 Kalaw 11-12.12. (ssp. spilonotus) Max 2 Mt Victoria 16 & 18.12.

156. Yellow-browed Tit Sylviparus modestus modestus
Max 6 Mt Victoria 15-18.12

157. Burmese Bush Lark Mirafra microptera Endemic
12 Sitsana 13.12, 3 W of Chauk 14.12, 3 Sulamani 20.12.

158. Sand Lark Calandrella raytal raytal
15+ Irrawaddy 13.12.

159. Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula
2 Mt Victoria (grassy slope on top ridge) 18.12.

160. Crested Finchbill Spizixos canifrons canifrons
Max 25 daily Mt Victoria (low) 16-18.12.

161. Striated Bulbul Pycnonotus striatus striatus
Max 30 daily Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

162. Black-crested Bulbul Pycnonotus flaviventris
(ssp flaviventris) 10 Hlawga Park 9.12, 1 Nagabwet 14.12, 10+ Nagabwet 19.12. (ssp vantynei) max 10 Kalaw 11-12.12.

163. Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus
8 Hlawga Park 9.12, 10 Lake Inle 10.12.

164. Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer
40+ e.r. 14.12, 20+ e.r. 19.12, 2 Bagan 20.12. 10-30 Red-vented/Sooty-headed intergrades of disputed origin were seen Kalaw 10-12.12.

165. Flavescent Bulbul Pycnonotus flavescens vividus
10-15 Kalaw 11-12.12. Max 10 Mt Victoria 16-17.12.

166. Streak-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus blanfordi blanfordi
4 Hlawga Park 9.12, 20+ e.r. 14.12, 5 e.r. 19.12, 15 Sulamani 20.12.

167. Mountain Bulbul Ixos mcclellandii
Max 7 (ssp tickelli) Kalaw 11-12.12, 10 (ssp ventralis) Mt Victoria 15.12.

168. Ashy Bulbul Hemixos flavala
10-15 Kalaw 11-12.12.

169. Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus
10-15 Kalaw 11-12.12, 5 Mt Victoria 15 & 18.12.

170. Grey-throated Martin Riparia chinensis chinensis
30+ Irrawaddy 13.12, 1 Irrawaddy 20.12.

171. Sand Martin Riparia riparia
50+ pale individuals Lake Inle 10.12.

172. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Seen on 6 days.

173. Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii filifera
2 E Kalaw 10.12.

174. Dusky Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne concolor sintaungensis
5 N Kalaw 10.12.

175. Asian House Martin Delichon dasypus
2 Lake Inle 10.12, max 200 Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

176. Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica
3 W Nagabwet 14.12, 1 Mt Victoria 17.12.

177. Yellow-bellied Warbler Abroscopus superciliaris
2 Nagabwet 19.12.

178. Black-faced Warbler Abroscopus schisticeps flavimentalis
2 Mt Victoria 16.12.

179. Brown-flanked Bush Warbler Horornis fortipes
1 heard Mt Victoria 17.12, 1 seen + 2 heard Mt Victoria 18.12.

180. Aberrant Bush Warbler Horornis flavolivaceus weberi
1 Mt Victoria 16.12.

181. Chestnut-headed Tesia Cettia castaneocoronata castaneocoronata
2 Mt Victoria 16.12.

182. Asian Stubtail Urosphena squameiceps
1 Kalaw 12.12.

183. Black-throated Bushtit Aegithalos concinnus pulchellus
1 Kalaw 11.12, 10 Kalaw 12.12.

184. Burmese Bushtit Aegithalos sharpei Endemic
Max 15 Mt Victoria (high) 15-18.12.

185. Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus
Seen on 7 days. Most numerous 20+ Lake Inle 10.12.

186. Tickell's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus affinis
2 Sulamani 20.12.

187. Buff-throated Warbler Phylloscopus subaffinis
Max 5 Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

188. Yellow-streaked Warbler Phylloscopus armandii
3 Bagan 13.12, 5+ Sulamani 20.12.

189. Radde's Warbler Phylloscopus schwarzi
1 N Kalaw 10.12, 2 Kalaw 12.12.

190. Buff-barred Warbler Phylloscopus pulcher pulcher
Hundreds on high elevations, Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

191. Ashy-throated Warbler Phylloscopus maculipennis maculipennis
2 Mt Victoria 15.12, 2 Mt Victoria 16.12.

192. Yellow-browed Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus
Seen or heard on 11 days.

193. Hume's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus humei mandellii
1 Nyaung Schwe 9.10, 1 N Kalaw 10-12. Seen and heard daily on Mt Victoria, max 30 14-18.12.

194. Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides
2 Kalaw 11.12, 1 Nagabwet 19.12.

195. Two-barred Warbler Phylloscopus plumbeitarsus
3 Kalaw 11.12, 5+ Kalaw 12.12, 1 Nagabwet 19.12.

196. Blyth's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus reguloides
5+ Kalaw 11.12, max 2 Mt Victoria 16-18.12.

197. Davison's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus davisoni
5-10 Kalaw 11-12.12.

198. Grey-hooded Warbler Phylloscopus xanthoschistos tephrodiras
Max 10 Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

199. Grey-crowned Warbler Seicercus tephrocephalus
1 Kalaw 12.12, 1 Mt Victoria 16.12, 2 Mt Victoria 17.12.

200. Whistler's Warbler Seicercus whistleri nemoralis
1 Mt Victoria (high elevation) 15.12.

201. Bianchi's Warbler Seicercus valentini
1 Mt Victoria 18.12. Heard and seen for a long time 2464 masl which could be a range extension for this species.

202. Martens's Warbler Seicercus omeiensis
1 Kalaw 11.12, 5 Kalaw 12.12.

Warbler sp Seicercus sp.
3 Kalaw 11.12, 5 Kalaw 12.12, 3 Mt Victoria 15.12, 1 Mt Victoria 16.12. Mostly quiet individuals.

203. Black-browed Reed Warbler Acrocephalus bistrigiceps
5 Lake Inle 10.12.

204. Thick-billed Warbler Iduna aedon
1 W Chauk 14.12.

205. Striated Grassbird Megalurus palustris toklao
2 Lake Inle 10.12.

206. Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis
5+ Irrawaddy 13.12.

207. Brown Prinia Prinia polychroa cooki
1 Sitsana 13.12, 3 Irrawaddy 13.12. 1 W Chauk 14.12.

208. Black-throated Prinia Prinia atrogularis khasiana
3 Mt Victoria (grassy slopes mid-high elevations) 16.12.

209. Rufescent Prinia Prinia rufescens
3 N Kalaw 10.12.

210. Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii
15+ N Kalaw 10.12, 8 Kanzunma 14.12.

211. Plain Prinia Prinia inornata blanfordi
5+ Lake Inle 10.12, 2 Sitsana 13.12.

212. Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius
Seen on 7 days.

213. Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus erythrogenys imberbis
2 heard N Kalaw 10.12, 2 heard Kalaw 11.12.

214. Spot-breasted Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus mcclellandi
1 Mt Victoria (low elevations) 17.12.

215. White-browed Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus schisticeps
1 Kalaw 11.12, 2 Kalaw 12.12.

216. Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus ruficollis
Max 7 Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

217. Spotted Wren-Babbler Spelaeornis formosus
1 Mt Victoria (low elevations) 17.12.

218. Chin Hills Wren-Babbler Spelaeornis oatesi Near-endemic
1 Mt Victoria 16.12, 2 Mt Victoria 18.12. Regularly heard early morning/late evening low-mid elevations Mt Victoria.

219. Grey-throated Babbler Stachyris nigriceps
2 Kalaw 11.12, 4 Nagabwet 19.12.

220. Golden Babbler Stachyridopsis chrysaea
(ssp. aurata) 5-15 Kalaw 11-12.12. (ssp. binghami) Max 20 Mt Victoria 15-17.12.

221. Pin-striped Tit-Babbler Macronus gularis
1 heard Kalaw 11.12.

222. Chestnut-capped Babbler Timalia pileata smithi
5 N Kalaw 10.12.

223. Rufous-winged Fulvetta Alcippe castaneceps
10+ Mt Victoria 15.12, 25 Mt Victoria 16.12.

224. Rusty-capped Fulvetta Alcippe dubia mandellii
20 Mt Victoria (low elevations) 17.12.

225. Brown-cheeked Fulvetta Alcippe poioicephala
4 Nagabwet 19.12.

226. Yunnan Fulvetta Alcippe fratercula fratercula
20+ Kalaw 11.12, 5 Kalaw 12.12. A split from Grey-cheeked Fulvetta.

227. Nepal Fulvetta Alcippe nipalensis stanfordi
Max 20 Mt Victoria (mid/low elevations)15-17.12.

228. Puff-throated Babbler Pellorneum ruficeps shanense
5-6 Kalaw 11-12.12.

229. Striated Babbler Turdoides earlei earlei
5 Irrawaddy 13.12.

230. White-throated Babbler Turdoides gularis Endemic
20+ Bagan 13.12, 40+ Bagan 20.12.

231. Mount Victoria Babax Babax woodi Near-endemic
Max 5 Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

232. White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucolophus
20 Hlawga Park 9.12.

233. Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush Garrulax monileger
At least 1 in a party Kalaw 11.12.

234. Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush Garrulax pectoralis
10 Hlawga Park 10.12. At least three groups of unidentified necklaced laughers at Nagabwet 19.12.

235. Black-throated Laughingthrush Garrulax chinensis
5 Kalaw 11.12.

236. White-browed Laughingthrush Garrulax sannio comis
5 heard Kalaw 11.12, 2 seen + 2 heard Kalaw 12.12.

237. Striped Laughingthrush Trochalopteron virgatum
2 Mt Victoria (mid elevations) 16.12, 2 Mt Victoria (low elevations) 17.12.

238. Brown-capped Laughingthrush Trochalopteron austeni victoriae
Max 6 seen on 3 days Mt Victoria (high/mid elevations)15-18.12.

239. Assam Laughingthrush Trochalopteron chrysopterum erythrolaemum
Max 20 seen daily on Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

240. Himalayan Cutia Cutia nipalensis
2 ♂ + 1 ♀ Mt Victoria (high elevations) 15.12.

241. Blue-winged Minla Minla cyanouroptera
1 Kalaw 11.12, max 10 Mt Victoria (mid/low elevations) 16-18.12.

242. Bar-throated Minla Minla strigula
Max 20+ seen on 3 days, Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

243. Red-tailed Minla Minla ignotincta
Max 8 seen daily on Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

244. Red-faced Liocichla Liocichla phoenicea bakeri
2 Mt Victoria (low elevations) 17.12.

245. Rusty-fronted Barwing Actinodura egertoni
Max 15 seen on 3 days, Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

246. Spectacled Barwing Actinodura ramsayi radcliffei
2 Kalaw 12.12. A few heard Kalaw 11-12.12.

247. Streak-throated Barwing Actinodura waldeni poliotis
5 Mt Victoria (high elevations) 15.12.

248. Silver-eared Mesia Leiothrix argentauris
(ssp. galbana) 15 Kalaw 12.12. (ssp. aureigularis) 1 Mt Victoria 17.12.

249. Grey Sibia Heterophasia gracilis
Max 40+ seen daily on Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

250. Dark-backed Sibia Heterophasia melanoleuca castanoptera
15 Kalaw 11 & 12.12.

251. White-browed Fulvetta Fulvetta vinipectus ripponi
40+ Mt Victoria (high elevations) 15.12, 5 Mt Victoria 16.12.

252. Yellow-eyed Babbler Chrysomma sinense
1 heard Kalaw 12.12.

253. Black-throated Parrotbill Suthora nipalensis ripponi
5 Mt Victoria 17.12, 20 Mt Victoria 18.12. This distinct subspecies has been proposed as an endemic species Buff-breasted Parrotbill restricted to Chin Hills.

254. Spot-breasted Parrotbill Paradoxornis guttaticollis
3 Mt Victoria 18.12.

255. Whiskered Yuhina Yuhina flavicollis
Max 10 seen daily on Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

256. Burmese Yuhina Yuhina humilis clarki Near-endemic
4 Kalaw 11.12.

257. Stripe-throated Yuhina Yuhina gularis
Max 6 seen on 3 days, Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

258. Chestnut-flanked White-eye Zosterops erythropleurus
5-10 Kalaw 11-12.12, 4-8 Mt Victoria 16-17.12.

259. Japanese White-eye Zosterops japonicus
10 Kalaw 11.12.

260. Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus
3 Kalaw 11.12.

White-eye sp. Zosterops sp.
15-30 Kalaw 11-12.12.

261. Chestnut-vented Nuthatch Sitta nagaensis nagaensis
Max 8 seen daily on Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

262. White-browed Nuthatch Sitta victoriae EN Endemic
5 Mt Victoria (high elevations) 15.12, 1 Mt Victoria (high elevations) 18.12.

263. Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis
10 Kalaw 11.12, 2 Kalaw 12.12.

264. Bar-tailed Treecreeper Certhia himalayana
1 Mt Victoria 16.12, 2 Mt Victoria 18.12.

265. Hume's Treecreeper Certhia manipurensis
1 (ssp shanensis) Kalaw 11.12, max 3 (ssp manipurensis) Mt Victoria 15-17.12.

266. Common Hill Myna Gracula religiosa
15 Nagabwet 14.12.

267. Great Myna Acridotheres grandis
6 E Kalaw 10.12, 1 Sitsana 14.12, 3 W Nagabwet 19.12.

268. Jungle Myna Acridotheres fuscus
5+ Nyaung Shwe 10.12.

269. Collared Myna Acridotheres albocinctus Near-endemic
2 E Kalaw 10.12.

270. Common Myna Acridotheres tristis tristis
Seen on 7 days.

271. Vinous-breasted Starling Acridotheres burmannicus burmannicus
30+ Bagan 13.12, 3 W Chauk 14.12, 6 Sulamani 20.12. This distinct subspecies is endemic in the dry central lowlands of Myanmar.

272. Black-collared Starling Gracupica nigricollis
1 heard N Kalaw 10.12.

273. Blue Whistling Thrush Myophonus caeruleus
1 Kalaw 11.12, 1 seen on 3 days, Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

274. Scaly Thrush Zoothera dauma dauma
1 Kalaw 12.12.

275. Grey-sided Thrush Turdus feae VU
40+ Mt Victoria 15.12, 15 Mt Victoria 16.12.

276. Eyebrowed Thrush Turdus obscurus
1 Mt Victoria 15.12, 1 Mt Victoria 16.12.

277. Siberian Rubythroat Luscinia calliope
2 ♂ Sitsana 13.12, 1 heard Kanzunma 14.12, 3 Sulamani 20.12.

278. Himalayan Bluetail Tarsiger rufilatus
Max 15 seen daily on Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

279. Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis erimelas
Singles seen on 3 days.

280. Daurian Redstart Phoenicurus auroreus
2 1y/♀ Kalaw 12.12, 2 1y/♀ Mt Victoria 17.12, 1 ♂ E Kanzunma 19.12.

281. Blue-fronted Redstart Phoenicurus frontalis
Max 4 seen on 3 days, Mt Victoria (high elevations) 15-18.12.

282. White-capped Redstart Chaimarrornis leucocephalus
1 Kalaw 11-12.12.

283. White-tailed Robin Myiomela leucura leucura
1 heard Kalaw 11.12, 1 Kalaw 12.12.

284. White-crowned Forktail Enicurus leschenaulti indicus
3 Kalaw 11.12, 1 Kalaw 12.12.

285. Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maurus
20+ Lake Inle 10.12, 1 Kalaw 11.12, 1 Kalaw 12.12.

286. White-tailed Stonechat Saxicola leucurus
5 Irrawaddy 13.12.

287. Pied Bush Chat Saxicola caprata burmanicus
1 pair E Kalaw 10.12, 10 Bagan 13.12, 40+ e.r. 14.12, 15+ e.r. 19.12, 10 Sulamani 20.12.

288. Jerdon's Bush Chat Saxicola jerdoni Near-endemic
2 pairs Lake Inle 10.12.

289. Grey Bush Chat Saxicola ferreus
1 pair N Kalaw 10.12, 2 Kalaw 11.12, max 8 seen daily on Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

290. Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius
1 1y/♀ Kanzunma 14.12.

291. Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush Monticola rufiventris
Max 3 seen on 3 days, Mt Victoria 15-18.12, 1 ♀ E Nagabwet 19.12.

292. Asian Brown Flycatcher Muscicapa latirostris
1 Hlawga Park 9.12.

293. Slaty-backed Flycatcher Ficedula hodgsonii
1 ♂ Kalaw 11.12. Max 15 seen on 3 days, Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

294. Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher Ficedula strophiata strophiata
Max 5 seen daily on Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

295. Taiga Flycatcher Ficedula albicilla
Seen daily except on Mt Victoria, max 20 Hlawga Park 9.12.

296. Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni australorientis
1 ♂ Kalaw 11.12.

297. Ultramarine Flycatcher Ficedula superciliaris aestigma
1 1y-♂ N Kalaw 10.12.

298. Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassinus thalassinus
1 Kalaw 12.12, 2 Mt Victoria 16.12, 4 Mt Victoria 17.12, 1 Nagabwet 19.12.

299. Pale Blue Flycatcher Cyornis unicolor unicolor
1 Kalaw 11.12.

300. Pale-chinned Blue Flycatcher Cyornis poliogenys
1 W Nagabwet 14.12.

301. Blue-throated Blue Flycatcher Cyornis rubeculoides
3 Nagabwet 19.12.

302. White-gorgeted Flycatcher Anthipes monileger
1 Mt Victoria 17.12.

303. Blue-winged Leafbird Chloropsis cochinchinensis
5 Kanzunma 14.12.

304. Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons
1 W Nagabwet 14.12.

305. Orange-bellied Leafbird Chloropsis hardwickii
1 Kalaw 11.12.

306. Yellow-vented Flowerpecker Dicaeum chrysorrheum chrysochlore
1 Kanzunma 19.12.

307. Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker Dicaeum melanoxanthum
4 Mt Victoria 15.12, 4 Mt Victoria 18.12.

308. Fire-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum ignipectus ignipectus
1 ♂ Kalaw 11 & 12.12, 3 Mt Victoria 16.12.

309. Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker Dicaeum cruentatum cruentatum
5 Hlawga Park 9.12, 1 e.r. 14.12, 1 pair Kanzunma 19.12.

310. Ruby-cheeked Sunbird Chalcoparia singalensis
1 ♂ Hlawga Park 9.12.

311. Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus intermedius
1 Sitsana 13.12, 5+ e.r. 14.12, 1 e.r. 19.12.

312. Olive-backed Sunbird Cinnyris jugularis
5 Hlawga Park 9.12.

313. Mrs. Gould's Sunbird Aethopyga gouldiae dabryii
3 ♂ Kalaw 11.12.

314. Green-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga nipalensis victoriae
Max 5+ seen daily on Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

315. Black-throated Sunbird Aethopyga saturata petersi
3-5 Kalaw 11-12.12.

316. Fire-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga ignicauda flavescens
Max 8 seen daily on Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

317. Streaked Spiderhunter Arachnothera magna
1 Mt Victoria 17.12, 1 Nagabwet 19.12.

318. House Sparrow Passer domesticus indicus
Seen on 5 days.

319. Plain-backed Sparrow Passer flaveolus
1 ♂ Sitsana 13.12, 50+ Sulamani 20.12.

320. Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus
Seen at Lake Inle.

321. Streaked Weaver Ploceus manyar
1 Irrawaddy 13.12.

322. Baya Weaver Ploceus philippinus burmanicus
30+ Sulamani 20.12.

323. Red Avadavat Amandava amandava flavidiventris
10 Irrawaddy 13.12.

324. White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata
Max 10 Kalaw 11-12.12.

325. Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata
Seen on 5 days. Most numerous 50 E Kalaw 10.12.

326. Forest Wagtail Dendronanthus indicus
2 Hlawga Park 9.12.

327. Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava
2 Irrawaddy 13.12.

328. Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola
3 Lake Inle 10.12, 2 Irrawaddy 13.12.

329. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea
1 E Kalaw 10.12, 2 Kalaw 11.12, 1 Kalaw 12.12.

330. White Wagtail Motacilla alba leucopsis
Seen on 8 days. Most numerous Irrawaddy 13.12, there also 10+ (ssp baicalensis).

331. Richard's Pipit Anthus richardi
1 Irrawaddy 13.12, 1 Sulamani 20.12.

332. Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus rufulus
3 Nyaung Shwe 10.12.

333. Long-billed Pipit Anthus similis yamethini
2 Sitsana 13.12, 1 Sulamani 20.12. This distinct subspecies is endemic in the dry central lowlands of Myanmar.

334. Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni
Seen on 9 days, most numerous on Mt Victoria 30+ 18.12.

335. Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus
3 Irrawaddy 13.12.

336. Yellow-breasted Greenfinch Chloris spinoides heinrichi
10 Mt Victoria 16.12, 3 Mt Victoria 18.12. Distinct subspecies only found in South Assam and Chin Hills

337. Black-headed Greenfinch Chloris ambigua ambigua
10+ N Kalaw 10.12.

338. Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus
2 Kalaw 11.12, 1 Kalaw 12.12, max 40 seen on 3 days, Mt Victoria 15-18.12.

339. Brown Bullfinch Pyrrhula nipalensis victoriae
15 Mt Victoria 15.12.

340. Little Bunting Emberiza pusilla
1 heard Kalaw 11.12, 30 Mt Victoria 16.12, 10 Mt Victoria 18.12.

341. Chestnut Bunting Emberiza rutila
1 1y/♀ Kalaw 12.12.

 

List of mammals: Myanmar, December 9th - 21st 2012

1. Wrinkle-lipped Free-tailed Bat Chaerephon plicatus
Possibly this species. A few hundred around Schwedagon Pagoda, Yangon late evening 21.12.

2. Yellow-throated Marten Martes flavigula
Two seen at Mt Victoria 19.12.

3. Irrawaddy Squirrel Callosciurus pygerythrus
This is the common squirrel around Bagan

4. Pallas's Squirrel Callosciurus erythraeus
Fairly common Mt Victoria.

5. Western (Himalayan) Striped Squirrel Tamiops mcclellandii
Singles on Mt Victoria.

6. Orange-bellied Squirrel Dremomys lokriah
Fairly common Mt Victoria.

7. Indian Giant Flying Squirrel Petaurista philippensis
Stunning views of one seen near Pine Villa, Mt Victoria 18.12.

 

Some interesting birds NOT seen

Mrs. Hume's Pheasant – Still survives hunters on Mount Victoria slopes (for how long?).
Blyth's Tragopan – Rarely encountered on Mount Victoria.
Baer's Pochard – Has been reported from Lake Inle.
Rain Quail – Flushed around Bagan.
White-rumped Falcon – Dry forest between Nagabwet – Kanzunma en route Mount Victoria.
Pale-capped Pigeon – Hlawga Park
Pale-headed Woodpecker – Bamboo stands close to Nagabwet.
Neglected Nuthatch – Dry forest between Nagabwet – Kanzunma en route Mount Victoria.
Blue-winged Laughingthrush – Eastern Himalayan species. Scarce at low elevations on Mount Victoria.
Olive Bulbul – Seen between Mount Victoria and Bagan, don't know where.
Stripe-throated Bulbul (ssp davisoni) – Split warning, Hlawga Park
Black-headed Shrike-babbler – Eastern Himalayan species. Occurs in mixed flocks on Mount Victoria higher elevations.
Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler – Rare in bamboo thickets on Mount Victoria.

 

Future aspects

• Start early at Lake Inle! We missed at least 1 hour of valuable birding time at the rich northern part of the lake.

• Stop at the freshwater area (mentioned by U Paal, including GPS coordinates) between Kalaw and Heho to scan properly for Grey-headed Lapwing, we never gave it a shot!

• If more birding groups, arranged as well as independent, go to Myanmar, we believe (or at least hope) it will sooner or later pop up some place close to Nagabwet forest between Bagan and Mt Victoria where staying overnight will be possible, we proposed this idea to Ko Thet. When/if this happens all birders should consider staying in one or both directions to get more out of this area which have proved to be both diverse and rich. There are far more to this area we believe and at the present situation there is impossible to see all the good birds at only two swift attempts often during the middle of the day. The areas interesting-looking are too vast and time is too limited to explore as one would like to. To get a taste of it, this is a list of potentially cool birds previously observed that we missed: White-rumped Falcon, Black Baza, Rufous-bellied Eagle, Pale-headed Woodpecker, Great Slaty Woodpecker, Black-headed Woodpecker, Greater Yellownape, Greater Flameback, White-browed Piculet, White-rumped Shama, Black-backed Forktail, Indochinese Cuckoo-shrike, Blue-winged Laughingthrush, Olive Bulbul, Neglected Nuthatch. When reading trip-reports it's obvious that no list is the other alike.

• How many days on Mount Victoria? You need at least one day at high altitude, one day low and one day high-mid. On our last day we added quite few new birds. We spend many hours that day searching for feeding flocks possibly containing Black-headed Shrike-babbler. At times our last day felt a bit slow, maybe it was indeed lower activity, but the fact is also that we had very few realistic birds still to see. Off course we didn't see everything but at least most of the desired birds.
   

Additional record shots

Northern Goshawk Accipiter gentilis. Ye-aye-kan, 2012-12-11		Slaty-backed Flycatcher Ficedula hodgsoni. Ye-aye-kan, 2012-12-11

Grey Nightjar Carpimulgus jotaka hazarae. Mount Victoria, 2012-12-15		Crested Finchbill Spizixos canifrons. Mount Victoria (mid elevations), 2012-12-16

Grey-backed Shrike, Lanius tephronotus. Mount Victoria (low elevations), 2012-12-16		Red-faced Liocichla Liocichla phoenicea bakeri. Mount Victoria (low elevations), 2012-12-17

Aberrant Bush Warbler Horornis flavolivaceus weberi. Mount Victoria (high elevations), 2012-12-16		Red-headed Trogon Harpactes erythrocephalus. East of Nagabwet, 2012-12-19

Red-tailed Minla Minla ignotincta. Mount Victoria, 2012-12-18		Spotted Owlet Athene brama pulchra. Close to Sitsana pagoda, Bagan, 2012-12-13

Yellow-streaked Warbler Phylloscopus armandii. Close to Sulamani pagoda, Bagan, 2012-12-20		Pied Harrier Circus melanoleucos. Irrawaddy River, 2012-12-13

Laggar Falcon Falco jugger. Sulamani pagoda, Bagan, 2012-12-20		Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer of disputed origin, Kalaw, 2012-12-11.

GPS coordinates

GPS1: Nyaung Shwe Jetty. Lat: 20,659685 Long: 96,924743
GPS2: Lake Inle: Observation platform. Lat: 20,616295 Long: 96,910885
GPS3: Lake Inle: Jerdon's Bushchat, pair. Lat: 20,606075 Long: 96,889424
GPS4: Collared Myna, E Kalaw. Lat: 20,647233 Long: 96,600097
GPS5: N Kalaw, Trail. Lat: 20,655679 Long: 96,567594
GPS6: N Kalaw, Ultramarine Flycatcher. Lat: 20,655992 Long: 96.570087
GPS7: E Ye-aye-kan, start of Ko Pans trail. Lat: 20,595942 Long: 96,552270
GPS8: Ye-aye-kan, ridge, Burmese Yuhina. Lat: 20,592380 Long: 96,538796
GPS9: Ye-aye-kan, upper reservoir. Lat: 20,592221 Long: 96,529072
GPS10: N Ye-aye-kan, start of jeep track. Spectacled Barwing. Lat: 20,608508 Long: 96,542066
GPS11: Sulamani Pagoda, Laggar Falcon. Lat: 21,163628 Long: 94,881477
GPS12: Sitsana Pagoda, Treepie + Minivet. Lat: 21,119132 Long: 94,857397
GPS13: Old Bagan Jetty. Lat: 21,178663 Long: 94,859475
GPS14: Irrawaddy debarking point. White-tailed Stonechat. Lat: 21,108197 Long: 94,809627
GPS15: Site for Neglected Nuthatch: Lat: 21,068007 Long: 94,379208
GPS16: Roadside Restaurant. Lat: 21,079653 Long: 94,376629
GPS17: Parakeets. Lat: 21,120555 Long: 94,152475
GPS18: Mt Victoria Babax, early morning. Lat: 21,222473 Long: 93,952071
GPS19: Lower track, Mt Vict. Black-throated Parrotbill. Lat: 21,213984 Long: 94,029196
GPS20: Spot-breasted Parrotbill (2387 masl). Lat: 21,222248 Long: 93,969866
GPS21: Bianchi's Warbler (2464 masl). Lat: 21,223851 Long: 93,980938
GPS22: Kyauk Swee, scenic valley. Lat: 21,134540 Long: 94,217582
GPS23: Yellow-footed Pigeon. Lat: 21,116145 Long: 94,230095
GPS24: White-bellied Woodpecker. Lat: 21,114054 Long: 94,237156
GPS25: Red-headed Trogon. Lat: 21,077765 Long: 94,312498

Roadside birding at higher elevations on Mount Victoria.